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Here is a collection of tips and ideas for building the Yellow Submarine kit from AMT/Ertl. These were originally suggested on the
Polar Lights Bulletin Board
- Remove the wind up crank on the front of the model. Fill the crank and screw shafts with sprue and then saw them off.
- The sub in the movie has two propellers. This will require replacing the single prop on the kit. You should be able
to find a variety of props at a good hobby shop which stocks aftermarket parts.
- The original kit came with a decal of the red stripe. However, this is lacking in the reissue. You can use 1/4 inch automotive
pinstriping to replicate this detail. Another alternative is Carl Goldburg striping tape that cane be found at the local RC/hobby shop.
- If you want to be creative, do your own decals complete with the Beatles in the window. The porthole images of the Beatles on the sides
of Polar Lights kits could be scanned, reduced, printed out and used on the Yellow Sub
- Try mounting on a nice finished plaque with clear acrylic rods as support stands
Here are some additional tips from Mark Wilson:
- Paints:
Apple Barrel
Antique white 20505
Bright Red 20501
Apricot 20764
Yellow 20502
Also used a red sharpie for
the red stripe, but later changed that to a length of red 1/8 automotive pin striping tape.
- Sanded the plastic to give the paint more "tooth". Glued a piece of sprue into both the prop shaft and the crank
shaft. And then used an exacto saw to cut them off flush with the
surrounding surfaces. Then I sanded and puttied the seams and little holes in the top of the sub. I then used some sprue to cover the slot where the front wheel went, and used sheet plastic to cover the rear wheel wells. When I was satisfied with the putty work I primed the whole thing with antique white Once the primer was dry I "eyeballed" the red line that separated the colors with a pencil. I had started to use a paper mask and cut everything out nice and neatly, then I thought "It's a cartoon submarine" so I drew everything freehanded. Hint. Don't drink too much coffee when you're drawing lines freehanded…
- Since the sub has 2 screws I used the 2 outboard screws off of a Revell Titanic kit. They are a little small, but I think they
work. I used 2 small lengths of spure to mount them on. I then
brushed future on the model in thin layers. I did notice a tendency for the future to cause the red marker to try and run, so I was careful to wash the red lines quickly to keep the red from running with the future. I then applied the decals and then another coat of future was applied over the decals and the rest of the sub.
Thanks to Mark Wilson and Mark Fergel for suggestions
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