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Tony Crews' Klingon Bird of Prey |
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Time to send CultTVman some shots of another project.
I did this one for two reasons: It's been one of my Trek favorites and I wanted to do a straight wing instead of the attack position of the wings.
Basically, the kit is again, out of the box (and another unpainted stand). I airbrushed the assembled kit over all Pale
Green, according to the instructions. Mostly I followed all the recommended paint scheme for the BOP, however, I did make one change. Studying the photograph on both the web and "The Art
of Star Trek", I noticed that the color used on the prop was not close to Testor's SAC Bomber Green but more close to matching Euro I Dark Green. I also chose not to paint as many panels with
the aforementioned color, again, using the photo as a reference.
After letting the base color and the subsequent greens cure about a week after application, I then tackled the all important
"feathers" on the bottom, using Humbrol red, lightened with yellow to give it more a blended effect on the outer part of the painted areas.
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After getting the feather pattern to my satisfaction, I then used Polly S Oily Black and 12 part water to make a water based
wash to bring out the highlights and not "attack" the enamel paints that I previously applied. This required no waiting for the enamels to cure and it took the better part of an afternoon
to get the wash and details brought out. After the wash dried, I reworked necessary areas with more wash, allowed to dry again, then dry brushed the overall model with Pale Green.
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The baffle's are done with Humbrol Aluminum and Humbrol Gun metal. Before applying the two metalcotes, I gave the baffles a flat
black primer coat with a hand brush, allowed it to cure for a day, then applied the metal paints.
Again, using the prop photos as a guided, I did my best to recreate the pattern on the prop. Last, I applied a small amount of a thinner based wash between the baffle plates, eating away a little of the metalcote and showing just enough of the black primer underneath for that extra detail.
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I didn't completely coat the model with gloss coat for decaling.
I applied Future Floor wax to the areas to be decaled, let cure for an hour, and then applied the decals. After 24 hours of drying out, I then covered the decal and gloss area with Testor's Dullcote with a hand-brush.
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This was a quick build but long in detail and painting but well worth the effort!
Tony Crews
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