Scratchbuilding the Dove part 16

MAKING THE WING AND VERTICAL STAB. MASTERS

I refer you to the next photo: Both the vertical stabilizer (embodying the engraved outlines of the rudder and split air brake) and wing master were cut from twenty-pound Modeler's foam. Note that the initial cuts made to represent the recessed control surface outlines were achieved using a chisel blade. The smoothing out of these breaks between control surface and stabilizer/wing structure was done with special sanding tools formed by gluing #240 and #400 wet and dry sandpaper to specifically shaped pieces of aluminum sheet.

Both the vertical stabilizer (embodying the engraved outlines of the rudder and split air brake) and wing masters were cut from twenty-pound Modeler's foam. Note the paper template used to mark out the wing outline. The vertical stabilizer was marked out the same way.

Note the paper template (cut from a copy of the 1/48 Phil Rae orthographic drawings) used to mark out the wing outline onto the modeling foam, which was then cut to shape on the band saw. The vertical stabilizer was marked out and cut from its blank in a like fashion.

The wing and vertical stabilizer surfaces nearing completion. Note the use of Nitro-Stan 9001 touch-up putty (the red spots) to fill some over-cuts and other 'dings' observed after the initial gray primer coat had dried.

After the wing and vertical stabilizer blanks were cut out most of the airfoil shaping was done on a power-sanding wheel, final shaping performed with a hand held sanding block. Initial cuts were with #100 grit sandpaper, working finally to #400. Then an initial gray primer coat to find the flaws was laid down on the two masters. As I neared completion of the wing and vertical stabilizer pieces I used Nitro-Stan 9001 touch-up putty (the red spots) to fill some over-cuts and other 'dings' observed after the initial gray primer coat had dried.

The brass master of the wing cylinder right next to the dense foam wing blank. The big deal with these two parts would be coming up with a technique that would get them to fit together without any noticeable gaps.

MOUNTING THE WING TO THE WING CYLINDER

The wing master received two holes in its root to accommodate one-sixteenth inch diameter brass pins. The pins were permanently press fit into the side of the wing cylinder master.

Two brass one-sixteen inch diameter pins were set into holes bored through the side of the cylinder piece. Corresponding holes were carefully drilled into the root of the wing to accommodate these pins.

The brass master of the wing cylinder, possessing raised radial ribs, required my coming up with some means of getting the root of the wing master to adopt this rib pattern exactly.

Getting the wing root to fit the ribbing of the cylinder started by placing the two together and then marking off the wing root with the location and width of the ribs. Those areas were then cut out with a sharp knife and a flat jeweler's file.

Achieving this goal started by inserting the wing into the two wing cylinder pins. With the root of the wing up against the side of the wing cylinder it was an easy matter to mark off the location and width of the ribs to the wing with a fine tipped pen.

Removing the wing, the marked areas were roughly cut out with a sharp knife and a square sectioned jeweler's file. The wing and wing cylinder were repeatedly fit together to check progress of the slot cutting chore. Once the majority of the wing was observed to sit within the grooves of the wing cylinder I was ready to make a perfect union between the two pieces with the aid of filler.

WHY DO IT THIS WAY?

Yes, I could have made the wing and wing cylinder as a single integrated piece. But, that would have later necessitated a very involved and timely masking chore of the final model parts - it is very hard to mask off silver paint (the wing cylinder is various shades of silver, the wing is a metallic green) without harming the metallic finish. I felt it would be much easier to paint the wings and wing cylinder off-model and to secure them with the mounting pins after all other work had been completed.

(The competent Model builder not only evolves a methodology for assembly, he also embodies within that methodology a 'painting schedule', the assignment of an order of paint application and determination of the specific painting/masking technique that will be employed for each subassembly).
 

An exact union between wing root and cylinder was achieved by coating the cylinder with mold release wax, mixing up some Euro-Soft filler, and applying it to the root of the wing.

ACHIEVING A TIGHT FIT BETWEEN WING AND WING CYLINDER

An exact union between the wing and wing cylinder masters was achieved by coating the cylinder with mold release wax, mixing up some Euro-Soft filler, applying it to the root of the wing, and then pressing the wing cylinder and wing units tightly together.

After the Euro-Soft had cured hard, the wing was flexed a bit in sheer to break the slight adhesive bond between it and the wing cylinder. The two units were then pulled apart. What was revealed was a perfectly matched set of surfaces, that when joined again produced a gap free union.

TO BE CONTINUED

Next installment, Part 17,  I'll cover how I matched the root of the vertical stabilizer to the hull with the aid of 'mounting pins', and the use of metal foil as a barrier between the DOVE hulls surface and adhesives and fillers.