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My interest in modeling began about the same time that Lost in Space first aired in the mid-sixties. Although I had
tinkered with
modeling as a kid, my interest in scratch building was born exclusively out of my desire to acquire an accurate replica of the Jupiter 2, and the realization that I would most likely have to build it on my own.
David Merriman.is one of the foremost modelers in the country, and one could simply not ask for a better mentor. For a while he was actually considering the marketing of a larger 10-inch J2
model. He left me armed with a lot of information, but there was still a need to see the project through on my own.
My beginnings in modeling were actually quite humble, and entirely
self-motivated. As such, anyone with moderate talent and similar determination should be able to come up with something satisfying. On the other hand, I should also mention that scratch building
itself can be an exercise in frustration at times, and your
personality should be resilient enough to handle disappointments. After all, there are no hard-and-fast rules in this field, only general guidelines. As a general rule, you can expect to be successful about one time in ten with any given untried technique.
During the years when I found myself groping for amswers, one of my biggest concerns was how to come up with something to use for the top dome.
VACUFORMING TIP #1
My first tip is a custom variation of a "classic" technique. The top dome of my J2
prototype vacu-formed by utilizing a custom and somewhat unorthodox process. A piece of clear acetate was secured to a cardboard frame, and heated in an oven at
about 300 degrees for about three minutes. At the point when the plastic began to sag noticeably, the assembly was taken out and positioned between a metal circle
gauge and an open cup. The process of driving a prepared resin pattern (supported on a brass rod) through the circular guide forced the softened plastic underneath to
conform to its shape. Please note that the use of the circle gauge in this process was necessary in order to avoid a "draping" effect which would have otherwise distorted
the shape of the dome. The separated dome was finally secured to the top of the upper hull section from within through a precut 15/16 inch diameter hole..
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VACUFORMING TIP #2
We are now ready for a discussion of
more advanced and more conventional vacu-forming techniques. Remember that vacu-forming (or thermoforming) is really nothing more than forcing a flat plastic (usually styrene) sheet to conform to the shape of a prepared solid pattern by utilizing heat and air pressure.
Thermoforming the mini chariot main body for my enhanced Aurora diorama first required the construction of a simple vacuum box apparatus. The finished box
consisted of two wooden compartments separated by a platform to support the pattern, which contained a variety of small manually drilled holes. The bottom compartment contained a single side hole with a rubber gasket large enough to accommodate a vacuum cleaner hose. Edge sealing was accomplished with simple duct tape. A tightly fitting cover made of simple corrugated cardboard, with an open top window for the clear plastic sheet, completed the basic construction.
After firmly securing the plastic sheet with a staple gun, the entire top assembly was heated in the oven, then fitted onto the box. The air was then evacuated by the vacuum
cleaner, and presto! the softened plastic was forced to conform to the shape of the pattern which had been secured onto the platform. Please note that this is simplified apparatus which will not meet all
vacuum forming needs, but which was more than adequate for this purpose. The final step in the process was simply to remove the excess plastic and fine sand the edges of the remaining part to match the corresponding section of the established master blueprint.
-- Ron Gross
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