 |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Randy Hobb's Galor
This model was a delight to build and won second place in its catagory at the I
.P.M.S Eagle Squadron in Oct of 1997 in the Raleigh, NC area. It was entered as a second thought and suggestion from a local hobby shop owner. I was not
able to attend. I was very surprised at winning anything as it was my first real entry of any model subject, though not my first model. Anyway here are my modeling notes.
|
|
|
There were only a couple of assembly problems encountered. The first one involved the bridge section. The bottom of this section
was modified by removing some raised detail. After this was done I checked to see if it was aligned correctly. Once it was the bridge was set aside for painting.
|
|
Secondly, the recessed area on the right side of the ship was carved out a little more with an exacto knife to ensure the
top and bottom halves
join correctly. I replaced the vertical panel with a strip of sheet styrene cut to size. This area is just below where the forked section or rear section of the ship is. Prior to assembly I sanded and cleaned the parts. Assembly instructions were followed as outlined in the kit with the exception of the aforementioned modifications. I also chose to add a reflective material on the inside of the clear engine parts. When it came time to glue the bridge section to the main body I used super glue and baking soda for a strong weld. Note I also added weight inside the model to balance it on the stand.
|
|
|
After assembly was complete I filled in the small gaps with super glue and modeler's putty. When sanding of these areas
was done I primed the model with Model Master Gray Primer. I then considered the paint scheme in the kit instructions, checked the kit box art of the
ship,
|
|
watched episodes of Deep Space Nine to see the ships colors and read up on the building of the actual studio model in issue 16
of Sci-Fi & Fantasy Models. (This article complete with black & white and color pictures if fantastically detailed!) From all this information I put together my own Galor Class color
scheme. I used primarily Polly Scale paints, so unless otherwise noted the paint is that.
- Base Coat: a thinned airbrush mixture of 50% 505228 USSR Lt Earth Brn (33434) and 50% 505320 Ger RLM 79 Sand Yellow
(30215). I used Windex to thin my paint.
- Panels: various browns were used for the panel colors. Those colors are; 505260 British Middlestone (30266), 505200 Rust
(30215), 505336 Decktan (fs1735) and FS# 33637 Sand.
- Grills: 505300 GER RLM 61 Dark Brown (30040) with a wash of Gunze H95 Smoke Gray.
- Hatches: 505276 IJA Brown (30108)
- Raised Housings: Dirt (30095)
- Engine Housings: 505276 IJA Brown (30108) with raised details in Dirt (30095)
- Disruptor Array- beneath the bridge: inside the clear part paint it a florescent copper color or glue a copper- red
reflective material inside, paint the outside edges and middle part a light blue gloss icy
white color, and the center raised area Gunze H10 copper. Outline the array with copper where it fits onto the main ship hull. Note: the array looked different depending on the episode seen.
- Recessed Wing areas: Dark Brown (30040) with the raised details in that area Gunze H10 Copper, flat red and ecktan
FS# 1735. Then a wash of Gunze H95 Smoke was applied to these areas. I used a sand color to outline the recessed areas to give them punch.
- Blending of Colors: This was done with a smooth small sponge type brush found in various sizes in craft stores. I used
Gunze H34 Cream Yellow greatly diluted with Windex.(more like a wash)Keep applying these layers of wash until it looks well blended.
- Window Ports: I used a Zig Woodcraft extra fine tip marker in Artic White. I then outlined the ports with a permanant ultra
fine point brown marker.
- Raised Blue Strips: 505 226 USSR Underside Blue (15200) and 505023 Dark Blue (RLM24 Blue) Either looks good but I liked the
latter Dark Blue on the model.
- Battle Damage: I used an exacto knife and carved and etched into the model in selected areas and applied Dirt 30095 and
Dark Brown 30040 into these battle damage areas and dabbed the excess paint out. Finally a wash of Gunze Smoke Gray to accent the depth and burn of the hull damage.
- Lighted areas on the hull rear top section (those elongated things) I painted the same glossy icy blue white color to make
it appear lite on the front portion of it.
- Impulse Engines Clear parts: glue foil inside part and do a smoke wash on the outer side of the part.
- Pyramids: a tiny piece of foil on the bottom glue to the hull (remove a tiny portion of paint from the hull so they will
stick down with the clear part glue which is used on all the clear parts.Outline pyramids with brown ultra fine permanant marker.
- Glowing Orange/Yellow engines: Foil the inside of the clear part and paint the outer part clear yellow with a touch of
clear red.Outline these areas with permanant ultra fine tip red marker.
- Highlights: dry brush the lighter browns, sand, yellow and whites to define areas.
- Additional ship beacons: Austrian Rhinestones(Western Craft brand) style 5A1 strass 1 3/4 mm.
- Weathering:Dry Brush Browns across winged sections and erase with a pencil eraser very lightly unwanted weathering. Touch
of yellow paint here and there for more accenting and you're set to Gloss coat the entire model with Future Floor Wax.
Note: I did not use the supplied stand but mounted my model with copper tubing on a painted wood base.
THIS IS A FINE CANDIDATE FOR LIGHTING WHICH I INTEND ON DOING WHEN I
BUILD MY NEXT CARDASSIAN GALOR CLASS SHIP.
HAPPY MODELING!!!
-RANDY HOBBS
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
