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As the structure and detail fittings associated with each of the twenty-nine inch long ENTERPRISE's sub-assembles was completed
they were given an initial coat of gray automotive acrylic lacquer primer (DuPont 131S). This provided the surface of the parts the needed 'neutral color' through which I could easily detect file marks,
sanding scares, open seams, sunk putty, and other flaws that would mare the finish of the painted model.
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As each flaw was revealed it was either addressed with file and sanding block or filled with putty and re-contoured later. For
small putty fill jobs I take my trusty Nitro-Stan 9001 red lacquer touch-up putty, cut it with some lacquer thinner, mix it in a jar, and apply the thinned putty to the model with the aid of a stiff
brush.
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To those structure containing flush mounted acrylic windows I first masked off each lens with a proper sized and shaped piece of
masking tape (cut out after laying some of the tape onto a scrap piece of plastic sheet). The masking was cut out with the aid of straight-edge and sharp #11 X-Acto knife. The masks were laid down and a
heavy spray coating of 131S primer applied.
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After the primer dries, the masking is lifted off and the work wet sanded with #600 sandpaper used wet. Flaws were then
addressed with sanding-block or putty. Then, the window masks were reapplied and the work primed again.
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These steps repeated until an unblemished surface was achieved. Only then is a model ready for the color coats - not before! You
never paint over a discolored surface (note the patches of red putty and white styrene substrate). The final color coats must be applied over a uniformly gray undercoat of primer that has been well
sanded with either #600 or #1200 wet and dry sandpaper, used wet.
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You would not apply the final paint coats over this surface, would you!? Here I'm installing the initial window masks to the
Dorsal and Secondary Hull sub-assembly. This shot is of interest in that it shows the many types of fillers, putties, and primer used to achieve a smooth shape to the models structure The white areas are
the styrene plastic substrate, the brown areas are the CA/micro-balloon adhesive/filler I used to hold the parts together and do the initial fill work on the seams.
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The lighter red is air-dry lacquer based touch-up putty (Nitro-Stan 9001). The gray areas are 131S gray primer. The
multi-colored look is the consequence of sanding the part down to a smooth uniform surface with the discolored areas representing voids and high spots all worked to one level.
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There was a need to produce masks in the shape of discs and rectangles to cover the various sized windows on the Primary Hull,
Secondary Hull, and Dorsal. Discs of masking tape were made by punching the sharpened end of a suitably sized diameter of brass tubing into some tape temporarily mounted to a piece of scrap plastic
sheet. A straight edge and right-angle triangle were used to cut out rectangular pieces of masking.
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Here's a clever means of masking off small dome like shapes. Simply stick a length of tubing over the item you wish to protect
from primer and paint. A spare pair of hands are useful here.
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More to come in part 8
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