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Small T-1 type 1/8" LEDs, I find, are still to large and out of scale to most the Movie style starships. For a better scale appearance
file away material of the LED on the top of it. To do this carefully mount the LED in a slow speed drill and run it against a file until the LED top is at least half the diameter.
- Countersink a drill bit into the plastic (inside) to fit the outside diameter of 3mm to fit the modified T1( 3mm) LED*. Be careful not
to go all the way through and test fit often.
- Note:
Nav Position resistors LED Flasher #2 200k ohm (Slow)
Nav Strobe resisters LED Flasher #2 150K ohm (Faster)
About LightSheet
LightSheet was used to illuminate the inside of AMTs USS Reliant's Warp Nacelles. The white styrene plastic is translucent enough to
allow the LightSheet to shine through. The components of LightSheet for this project is two .5 x 5 inch strips and a lighting module wired parallel to the rest of my LED flashers and lamps components. A 6
volt, 700ma power supply was used for the entire lighting system.
The first step in installation of LightSheet is to opaque the inside of the Warp Nacelles. (Refer to kit instructions illustrations,
Step 3) Mask these areas: Inside of inboard warp nacelle, use pattern of grill on outside of part, trim and apply to other inboard warp nacelle part). Spray paint the inside of the, Warp Nacelles black. Insure
the sprayed areas to be opaque by holding the part up to a bright light, allow to dry. Spray paint the same parts again with white or silver. Remove the masking tape
When you install your lighting
system keep all of the wiring as low as possible to the bottom of the main hull. This will clear the space for maximum interior light transmission throughout. Use Superglue to secure wires and circuit boards to
the bottom of the lower hull. The LightSheet electronics Module was glued to the bottom of the main hull several inches away form the impulse engines. The wires then run out to the Warp Nacelles.
To place
the
LightSheet Strips in the model temporarily tape in place over the unpainted engine area. Solder on the leads to the wires and permanently secure with black electrical tape over the LightSheet. The outside of the Warp Nacelle can be tinted with a clear colored paint like Tamiya clear blue. Paint the raised ribs black. A very realistic effect is achieved with even and cool lighting of these areas.
Sanding the Upper and Lower Hull Parts
Refer to kit instructions Step 3
- Temporally white glue the upper and lower hulls with white glue like Elmer's. Clamp and let dry. drill to or ream to final final size
ports to fit .050 fiber optics.
- Sand or file away paint and clear resin residue from parts of the upper and lower hulls especially at the glue joints.
- Separate the hulls, Clean away the white glue.
- Install 1/4 to 1/2 inch .050 dia. fiber optics. Super Glue in place from the inside.
- Sand or file away the flared fiber optics ends flush from parts of the upper and lower hulls.
Plexiglass Plastic Disc acts as One Big Fiberoptic
Refer to kit instructions Step 3 & 6.
- This tip helps to eliminate 4 lamps around the front hull edge by the use of a 1/8th inch plexiglass disc. The plexiglass will transmit
the light from one lamp located in a notch in the the center of the disc that will also serve as illumination to the center of the hull as well.
- Cut the disk in a semi-circle with a radius of 8 1/2 inches conform to the same angle to where the upper hull steps up to the
engineering section of the Reliant kit. For my disc a band saw was used for cutting.
- Place the Plexiglass disc in the center of the main hull and epoxy or super glue into place.
- Clear part #104 Sensor Dome clear insert will also do the same as the plexiglass for the Space/Planetary Sensor Dome lights. Drill out
the center of clear part #104 and position one grain of wheat bulb as to
where it shows to be brightest by aligning the lamp filament up and down. When positioned Superglue into place. Drill a hole in the bottom of the hull assembly to run the wires through.
Bridge Lighting
Refer to kit instructions Step 3
- Assemble as per instructions opaque and paint white the interior. Trace the outline of the bridge assembly positioned onto the main
hull.
- Drill the top of the main hull to fit one grain of wheat bulb for the bridge lights.
- Flare the ends of nine.030 fiber optics cut 3/4 inch long, sand one side of the flare flat. Superglue into the recessed areas of the
tracing. When set flat sand the other side of the fiber optics until the bridge fits into place.
- Drill holes for the nav position light and docking port lights. Install fiber optics, bend and point the nav light fiber optic towards
the lamp. Test the lamp with the bridge in place and cement.
Shuttle Bay Doors Details
Refer to kit instructions Step 4
- Clear parts #100 can be detailed for lighting effects and more accurate doors.
- Cut and file into shape a plastic sheet pattern that will fit into the furthest recess of the clear part #100 Shuttle Bay doors. With
the shape finalized trace its pattern onto .10 ---.15 styrene sheet plastic.
- Scribe the Shuttle Bay Doors 1/8 inch apart with 9 lines or use an Evergreen Styrene Sheet of similar spacing. Cut out and file and
sand to fit into the clear parts #100 Shuttle Bay Doors and adhere into place.
- The shuttle Bay area on part #100 (clear) shows illuminated areas that can best be represented in a dashed pattern masked in the
exterior recessed area of the clear part. Cut strips of 1/16 inch wide by 1/8 inch stripes. Place them on the clear part # 100 at 1/16 intervals.
- Mask the interior (exposed to lighting lamp) of part # 100 with 1/8 strip masking tape. Opaque with black both inside and out of #100.
Paint white the exterior (exposed to space) Blue tint to the docking bay area "panel lights" will be achieved with Tamiya clear blue. Glue part # 100 into place.
Install your Lighting System
When you install your lighting system keep all of the wiring as low as possible to the bottom of the main hull. This will clear the
space for maximum interior light transmission throughout. Use Superglue to secure wires and circuit boards to the bottom of the lower hull.
Impulse Driver Cores
Refer to kit instructions Step 3
- Clear parts 100 and 101 should get a light coat of gloss while to diffuse light from the inside. At this point you can clear coat in
Tamiya Clear Blue the outside and detail paint white the raised details of the parts. Glue into pace. Mask for final painting.
- Main Hull Enclosure
Refer to kit instructions Step 3
- File and sand away the clear resin residue and most of the annoying ridges from the hull outside edge.
- Insure all paint , clear resin and super glue is cleaned from the seam edges of the upper and lower hull parts.
- Install the LEDs and connect Bridge lamp on upper hull part in close proximity of the bottom hull. Dry fit into place.
- Give the electronics one last systems test, make final adjustment or replace components accordingly.
- Make sure wires to Warp Nacelles run out to there proper places.
- Cement and clamp into place the Main Hull haves. Allow to dry.
Sensor Array and Supports
Refer to kit instructions Step 3 and plans.
- Drill a hole and countersink (on the inside) to fit modified Micro-Mini LED as a Nav Strobe on top of part #1 Long Range Sensor Array.
- The indented panel on parts 2,3, and 4 are Emergency Flush Vents. Cut out and insert new panels with Evergreen plastic prescribed
pattern #2030.
- Cut Evergreen plastic prescribed pattern #2030. Lay on strips .30 from edge on part #4. Glue together Sensor Array Braces. This
thickening of the supports will allow wires to run up to the Long Range Sensor
Array. SPECIAL TOOL: 1/8 paper punch for round end trim . Cut the Evergreen once again and reverse and inlay the outside to the finished edge. Cement and clamp parts 2,3, and 4. Sand / file smooth the edges Sensor Array Brace.
- File or sand the opening of part #1 Long Range Sensor Array top to accommodate the wider braces, until a proper fit.
- When fitting the Sensor Array Braces to the Phaser Cannon special fitting is involved. The thickening of all of the support pylons
throws off the fit of these components. Trim, cut and putty and file
accordingly. NOTE:It is also advisable to paint and mask the Emergency Flush Vents bottom (part # 4) by painting instructions. This will be a difficult area to reach in final painting of the ship.
Final Engine Assembly
Refer to kit instructions Step 1,6 & 7.
- To accommodate the wider pylon supports widen the parts 20 / 11, 12 / 21 where the pylons fit into the warp engines.
- Remove the inside of Warp Nacelles masking tape.(parts #20 /21)
- Superglue in place a small Grain O' Wheat 6V lamp to the interior of the clear resin filled Aft Thrusters of parts 11 & 12. Connect
one 22 ohm resister in series.
- Superglue in pace one modified blue 5mm (T3/4)LED* in place for the Magnatomic Amplification Crystal to parts 20 & 21. Solder one
75 ohm resister to the LED positive side of the LED for the 6V system.
- Place Light Sheet strip against the inside Warp Nacelle. Secure in place. (Tamiya Clear Blue will give the Nacelle light a blue color)
On to part 2!
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